I guess I’m not ready to surf giant waves yet
Went back to the same beach yesterday where I smacked my head into the ocean floor doing bodyboarding but it wasn’t enough to turn me off of surfing in general so I went back to actually surf with some friends this time. It’s around 12 pm and the wind was really strong so it was already peak time and we go down and the waves are crashing hard to the point they’re reaching the stairs so nobody was there apart from us and maybe one other guy going fishing on the far side.
Idk what was going through my head but I really wanted to surf a giant wave, like 10+ type waves and my friends knew it bc I kept bragging about doing it in the car and they both heavily advised me against it because I’m still a noob but I just said “watch me”.
I go out further than them and caught a couple small ones to hype myself up and then went out far to the point I hit the deep blue waves. Yeah, I was crazy.
And there it was like a few metres out, the biggest wave I’ve seen so far. Was way higher than me and I was freaking out but excited to surf it anyway so I kept calm as I could and waited for it to take me up but I screwed up trying to gauge when to stand up and when I got to the tip of the wave it launched me forward and I literally flew in the air. Idk how high I went exactly but it was so high that I was level with the top of the stairs that went down to the sand and there’s 3 flights of frickin stairs!!
I flung forward but I tilted myself to the side to avoid belly flopping because I knew it would’ve done serious damage but I ended up landing on my arm because I once again smacked into the sea floor and scraped the hell out of it. My friends even came to pull me out of the water and one of them just said I was cooked and I just nodded. Didn’t end up surfing after that, sat on the sand for a few hours then we just split.
Y’all probably think I’m a fool for doing that but I just really wanted to challenge myself even if I’m still a rookie. I’m gonna go back when my arm heals but yeah I’m done surfing the big waves, I’m not ready.