I recently been to Nazare and have a serious question for all you crazy big wave surfers out there

I recently been to Nazare. I was just standing at Praia do Norte and the hill for hours, staring at the waves. The swell was 5-6,5 m in height. At the same time I was both mesmerized and extremely feared/shocked by the power of these waves. I asked myself how could a normal sane human being ever ride these things, when they grow into a monsterwell that is up to 30 m in height?

Also, to anyone who is crazy, brave and skilled enough to do this, what was your progress. Could you explain in shortform how you acquired the skills, the mindset and the courage to go into these waters to ride those monsters.

Lastly, how many years did it take you to take on a big wave. Did you start surfing as a child? And is it even possible to become a decent surfer as a 30yo athletic built adult, but without any surfing experience. So far, I just heard all of you surfers pretty much started very young to learn this craft, as it is considered being one of the most complex sports one can learn.